A Spring jacket which is a soft unlined structure with dropped shoulders, mid length sleeves and turn up cuffs. Pockets optional (ok I’m still deciding if I should add them or not – I do like pockets!)
PATTERN: Rub-Off of a jacket I own.
REASONS FOR MAKING: A quick fix since I’m still working on my coat and my enthusiasm is wearing off a bit since it’s unlikely I’ll wear it until next winter. But this jacket has been on my to-do list for a while so it was time to pull the finger out!
FABRICS: Same as my coat fabric but this project is unlined. So it’s a lovely soft cashmere mix.
TRIMS: Printed tape for the hem, back neck seam and front facing.
HOW TO: This is a very basic shape so construction was easy enough. I used a sort of blind flat seam all over and while that means a bit of hand sewing, I love the results. It gives a soft stab stitch effect without seeing any thread. This is a technique I’ve been spotting on lots of high street coats that are unlined.
Here’s what I did…
The centre back seam on the collar is joined as this is a standing collar that runs from the front panels.
The front and back panels are joined at the shoulder seams and into the collar/back neck. Here’s where I got stuck into hand finishing the seams by cutting one seam allowance right back and turning the other over and under with a fell stitch.
Next, attach the sleeve flat and open, along the armhole seam.
Front and back is joined up the side seams and into the sleeves.
The front facing is attached to the front edge, seams trimmed back and edges hand sewn down onto the front panel.
The printed tape is added to the hem and hand finished.
Cuffs get turned up and tacked in place.
WHAT WENT WRONG: Because the original garment is very soft in structure, I didn’t think it would need a stay tape along the front edge so now it’s a bit wobbly. When in doubt, USE STAY TAPE!!
My cuffs also feel a little tight so I may take them down to allow for a little extra ease.
LESSONS LEARNED: I did think the pattern would be a little easier to draft than it was but since my jacket was so old, the fabric was pulled and stretched out of shape so making a toile was a good step! Just a few tweaks and all was grand.
The fabric I’ve used is heavier than the original jacket so the structure of the garment is not as soft as I would have really liked but that’s not a biggie.
VERDICT: Overall, I’m happy with the end product. Now I have the pattern for a shape that’s just so comfy and it would be a really satisfying quick sew in future. I might try a jersey next time. And maybe less hand sewing!